1. The 'CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK - ALCOHOL METHOD'.
This is the method I based on Pacheco's method of 1649. It uses strong alcoholic liquor. I discovered and pioneered the use
of Psyllium Husk for use of mucilage removal from unrefined flax-linseed oil. It takes 10 days to remove the mucilage.
Instructions are on page 38 of my book " Oil Painting Lessons with Rembrandt and Calcite Sun OIl"

2. The 'CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK ( Velasquez-Tavenier ) AIR PUMP METHOD'. An alcohol free method created by Daniel Tavenier (
of The Netherlands) and myself in April 2015.
It is the simplest method of the three and removes the mucilage within 24 to 36 hours. SEE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

3. The ' CSO GEL METHOD". It is in my book, " Oil Painting Lessons with Rembrandt and Calcite Sun OIl", on page 42
ALLBACK SWEDISH LINSEED OIL
IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR
FINE ART PAINTING

They produce 2 kinds:
BOILED and PURIFIED

My tests used the oil right from the
container.
The water test shows the cloudy mucilage
resting on the water.

#6 = ON YOUR LEFT; Their Purified Oil
#10 = ON YOUR RIGHT: Their BOILED oil

SEE THE REPORT EXPLAINING WHY I
CANNOT RECOMMEND ALLBACK
LINSEED OIL FOR FINE ART PAINTING
BARLEANS UNREFINED FLAX OIL
#11=On your left, is the UNCLEAN oil right out of the bottle. It is known to
be full of mucilage. SEE HOW CLOUDY  the raw unclean oil is when resting
on the water.
WATER is POLAR and draws down the soluble mucilage downwards to rest
on the water. NO SHAKING IS NEEDED !

# 13=On your right:
Barleans oil, previously cleansed
then SUN THICKENED for 30 days.
The oil is beginning to crystalize and dry HARD as it sits on the water. this
sample has no mucilage!!
It is pure and colorless clear as GLASS--AS it is
drying on the water. Only 1/4 inch oil is resting on the water

The book has the procedures for several methods to remove the mucilage
The CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK -ALCOHOL METHOD is an effective and simple
method


SWEDISH ALLBACK LINSEED OIL
THIS PREMIUM OIL IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR FINE ART OIL PAINTING
BECAUSE THEIR "PURIFIED LINSEED OIL FAILED THE WATER SEDIMENT TEST - see photos below
THIS FINE OIL IS MADE FOR PAINTING WOOD HOUSES - TO STOP THE DECAY FROM MOISTURE

Swedish , Allback linseed oil, is sold in the USA by ….http://www.solventfreepaint.com ... but manufactured and processed by the Allback company of Sweden.


I have read their website carefully several times, and I have written to them for specific information.
Swedish words translated into English, as in all language translations, lose some meaning.
Example; Their website says that if linseed oil is not first purified, but is BOILED to a certain temperature, it will EXPLODE. ......Well, that’s not true.
But, it will IGNITE. It is not that they are misleading us, just that the translation is weak.
I was able to understand the basic information their website says about their oil by applying common sense and use of my experience.

The one important question I have asked Allback, is this; ‘ What is the maximum temperature your PURIFIED oil…not your BOILED oil --- is heated to.
This very important question is based on my research of scientific academic sources that states flax/linseed oil begins to decompose at 230-236 degrees centigrade.
The allback company has never responded to my letters. The USA representative did respond after two letters, and would only say that the process is patented, and they will
not divulge it. This reluctance to inform the public is not helpful to us artists. My patent in the USA is open to the public, so I do not understand the reluctance.

PLEASE KEEP THE DECOMPOSITION TEMPERATURE IN MIND AS YOU READ THIS REPORT
This information is from academic sources and is on my website:
200 Degrees Centigrade = The Old Masters use of a goose quill to indicate SAFE heating temperature
230-236 Degrees Centigrade = DECOMPOSITION BEGINS / Carbonization/ Reduced Lifespan
300 Degrees Centigrade = Modern Stand Oil - heated/ without Oxygen
300 Degrees Centigrade = Oil smokes and produces TOXIC Carbon Monoxide and Acrolein gas vapors
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil begins to BOIL
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil Ignites / Catches fire
380 - 425 Degrees Centigrade= Burnt Plate Oil made by modern testing
Some websites recommend use of Burnt Plate Oil.
BURNT PLATE OIL is a very decomposed oil meant for disposable Lithography. Its true name is ‘ Lithography oil”.
Rembrandt's etching were made with Lithography Oil, and they are kept under wraps, covered, in the shade as much as possible.


The Allback  website states they process and sell two kinds of linseed oil. BOILED and PURIFIED.

1. ALLBACK'S " BOILED"  linseed oil.
Swedish Flax oil is undoubtedly one of the highest quality oil GROWN and HARVESTED in the world. But the processing of the RAW OIL determines the FINAL QUALITY for the
needs of artists. This Allback oil is BOILED and they do not deny it. They in fact are very proud of it, as they should be. Because its high quality BOILED OIL is made for painting
houses and fences and all manner of wooden objects , AND... they NEVER advertise it for fine art oil painting.  Linseed/ flax oil begins to BOIL at 343 degrees centigrade. This is
far above the safe temperature of
230-236 degrees centigrade at which time the oil begins decomposition. What does ’decomposition’ mean in terms of
artists oil? This: For house painting, 50 years is an adequate life span, and no one expects more. Of course the house is blasted by rain, sleet, sun and snow. It’s a miracle it
lasts 50 years.
A Van Eyck painting left to those outrageous conditions would not fare any better. The key here is that by BOILING the oil, and causing its decomposition, its lifespan is severely
compromised. But given that its service is - 50 years, it’s a moot point. I would bet my money that if the house was painted with Allback BOILED oil, and kept indoors next to the
Van Eyck painting for 600 years, it would not come close to the state of preservation of the Van Eyck painting.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S BOILED LINSEED OIL: : DO NOT use any BOILED linseed oil for fine art oil painting regardless on who makes it
Science says it is severely decomposed with a shortened life span.

2 . ALLBACK'S  " PURIFIED linseed oil".
a. = The oil is pressed COLD. This is GOOD. Cold Pressed oil is great, but even gentle heat in pressing is allowable as this oil is very TOUGH.
b. = Then it is stored and allowed to stand still. This is GOOD too , because this means it is allowed to settle the vegetable particulate caused by the pressing of the seeds.
When freshly pressed it is FULL of husk, dirt, and other sediment. Gravity will allow this heavier particulate to settle.
c. = Then the top clear oil is siphoned off. This is GOOD. Because now the clear oil is easier to be further processed. Allback, just as the Old Masters, learned something very
important. NO AMOUNT of gravity will remove the MUCILAGE. Mucilage is a very complex ingredient. Nature placed it inside the seed for reasons of nurturing the rebirth of the
seed when it is sown into the ground. Mucilage is INVISIBLE to the naked human eye. If you looked at a WARM glass of that clear bright top oil siphoned off the top, it would
sparkle with great beauty of transparency. BUT, it is filled with MUCILAGE. The Old Masters learned of this over centuries of oral tradition. Mucilage will ferment, decompose,
and turn the oil paint made with it, BROWN and DARK, if not removed. The Old Masters knew this and tried everything under the sun to remove it. Some succeeded and the
evidence is their 600 year old oil paintings with colors that remain jewel-like. After the Old Masters’ demise, 19th century scholars like Eastlake, followed by many generations
of other artists, all tried their hand at cleansing the oil. Finally, industry cleansed it with caustic lye chemicals, but ruined the oil’s durability, and properties, in the processing.

d. = Then, the Allback website says, the oil is ‘heated gently’ to remove the PROTEIN while it is exposed to OXYGEN. This oxygen procedure is not explained. But, I can add my
personal knowledge here. Since I have worked with the cleansing of the oil for 4 years now. The goal is to remove the Mucilage and by heating the oil, the heat thins the oil. This
certainly helps but it is not enough. Exposure to oxygen, especially if HEAT is being applied,  is very necessary, or, the steam water vapors remain in the oil, causing and
perpetuating moisture retention and slow drying. Since Allback wants a faster drying oil, oxygen is part of the process. The Old Masters knew this too, that the oil must be left
uncovered as it is being sun thickened.
It is interesting that Allback calls the MUCILAGE, by the term, PROTEIN. Some call it BREAK, and, others call it the ‘FOOTS”. Regardless, the Allback website says it treats the oil
with several gentle heatings and does their very best to remove ALL the PROTEIN, as they call it. Only then, do they call this oil PURIFIED.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S PURIFIED LINSEED  OIL. : Since I know the oil begins decomposition at 230 degrees centigrade, If I knew the temperature the Allback
PURIFIED oil is heated to,  I could make an informed accurate decision. Llacking that, I cannot endorse Allback oil for fine art oil painting.
Some artists are either unaware of the decomposition temperature of oil or do not care.

TESTS OF ALLBACK HOUSE
PAINTING LINSEED OIL

The tests were started on 5/1/09 and
5/2/09.

ON 6/23/09 I placed all samples in a box
without any light.

On 9/16/09, I removed the samples and
took photos of each. This almost 3
month standing in darkness produced
the following results.

#10= The ALLBACK BOILED LINSEED
OIL fared the worst of all samples. A
thick white concentration of mucilage
sits on the water under the oil.

#6 = The ALLBACK PURIFIED
LINSEED OIL, recommended by some
websites. It fared almost as bad as the
BOILED sample. PURE white mucilage  
rests on the water.
WATER TESTS
TO SHOW
MUCILAGE IN OIL
These series of tests
below, show the
results of 1/4 inch of oil
resting on 2 ounces of
water, over several
days.
The white paper
resting beneath the
jars has 2 lines. a solid
black and a red.
WATER IS POLAR AND
DRAWS SOLUBLE
MUCILAGE
DOWNWARDS LIKE A
MAGNET.
The Old Masters found
out that oil standing on
water , regardless of
how long it is left there,
will NOT remove all the
mucilage from the raw
oil.
THE MAGIC OF PSYLLIUM HUSK
THERE DOES NOT EXIST ....IN ANY ANCIENT TREATISE NOR IN ANY MODERN TEXT ....ANY MENTION OF PSYLLIUM HUSK AS AN INGREDIENT TO
REMOVE THE MUCILAGE FROM THE UNREFINED FLAX LINSEED OIL.  Psyllium husk was completely unknown to all the Old Masters , and
remained unknown to all subsequent theorists, artists , conservators and writers, including the artist-theorists of today.

THIS IS HOW I DISCOVERED THE USE OF PSYLLIUM HUSK FOR REMOVAL OF THE MUCILAGE FROM THE OIL.
My doctor recommended I drink Metamusil for irregularity. Metamusil is the brand name for a high fiber laxative and it is pure Psyllium
Husk. One teaspoon in an 8 ounce glass of water quickly expands to four times it's size because it absorbs the water. This gave me the
idea to use it as a " mucilage remover" because mucilage is an aqueous ingredient . To our benefit, It worked!

PSYLLIUM HUSK -- AS THE MUCILAGE REMOVER--began a revolution in removing the mucilage from the unrefined flax-linseed oil.
THE SECOND REVOLUTION was made possible by the common acquarium electricsl Air Pump. It accelerated the mucilage removal, taking
less time.

MOST IMPORTANT: The 3 CSO METHODS are safe, efficient and easily done at home.
End of page

all text and photos are copyright
protected
by
Louis R. Velasquez

THE
SUPERIOR
OIL OF THE
OLD
MASTERS
THE FRESH
PRESSED AND
CLEANSED OIL WILL
BE BRIGHT
YELLOW, THIN, AND
IS VERY SLOW
DRYING
THE OIL CAN NOW
BE THICKENED BY
EITHER SUN
EXPOSURE, OR,
THE AIR PUMP
METHOD. THIS WILL
BLEACH THE OIL
AND IT BECOMES A
FASTER DRYING OIL

April 19,2015 copyright Louis R. Velasquez, San Diego, California, USA

MY WORK TO REMOVE THE MUCILAGE FROM THE UNREFINED OIL
In the beginning, I focused on improving the successful 17th century recipe by Francisco  Pacheco, published in 1649.
Pacheco, was the teacher of the great Spanish painter, Velazquez. Judging by Velazquez well preserved paintings, Pacheco's recipe has
proven to be archival.
The importance of mucilage removal - was well known to all the Old Masters for over a thousand years. Numerous recipes exist in ancient
texts, of methods intended to remove the mucilage. Most do not work, and for various reasons-  the least effective is the "water washing"
method.
in the 1600's, Pacheco solved the " water washing" method, and he did it by using a liquor high in ethanol ( 87% ).
His recipe contained very little water for cleansing 16 fluid ounces of oil (  approximately 1/3 fluid ounce of water).
Pacheco knew nothing of Psyllium Husk and its powerful ability to absorb water.


BY A QUIRK OF FATE, I discovered PSYLLIUM HUSK for efficient removal of the mucilage.
This water absorbing material has proven to be indispensible for mucilage removal.
It is now is used in all three of my CSO oil cleansing methods.

THE 'CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK- ALCOHOL METHOD'
For many years, I was content with my modern CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK- ALCOHOL method , which I based on Pacheco's 1649 recipe.
I eliminated Pacheco's use of Lavender flower buds - and replaced it with Psyllium Husk . My method was efficient, easy to do,  
and resulted in a "solvent-free oil". Pacheco's oil contained Spike solvent which was excreted from the lavender flower buds by the ethanol.

A REQUEST FOR A NON-ALCOHOL METHOD
As years passed, I received numerous inquiries from artists around the globe, basically complaining that alcoholic liquor was prohibitively
expensive in their countries. From early 2014, to early 2016, I began testing and searching for a  "non-alcoholic" way to remove the mucilage.
I enlisted the help of some fine artists I had met via my website. I must acknowledge them because their concerns and hopes inspired me to
break out of my passivity.  Without their help, suggestions and ideas, the new non-alcohol methods of mucilage removal would not exist
.

THE AIR PUMP  (  Use of this new apparatus was first posted here in  2012 then in  2015 )
During this period, a difficult problem persisted that needed to be solved. This was related to the fantastic development of using an
aquarium air pump to thicken the oil so it would be a faster drying oil. The problem with the " Air Pump" method was that it was useless if the
air was humid. Artists in wet humid northern areas, or artists in hot muggy humid areas like Florida, could not use it because the air pump
would pump moisture from the humid air, into the oil. This created a very slow drying oil. I had no solution to the problem except to tell artists
to use it only in areas with dry air.

In April 2015 , my friend Daniel Tavenier , a resident of The Netherlands,
conceived of a new idea to absorb any moist air pumped into the oil jar by the air pump. He theorized adding some dry Psyllium Husk to the
oil jar containing the previously CLEANSED oil. His theory was that if any moisture was pumped into the oil jar, by the air pump, the husk
would absorb it. It was a brilliant idea!  

Daniel's idea inspired me to wonder whether the UNCLEAN oil ..could possibly be CLEANSED of mucilage by adding Psyllium Husk and using
the air pump together.  On April 19, 2015, I conducted two concurrent 24 hour tests , one with dampened husk and the other with dry husk.  
After 24 hours passed, the oil was filtered and tested for cleanliness. The test using dry psyllium husk proved to be effective and the test
using damp psyllium husk failed. My photographs show the results. The new method is named the "CSO Psyllium Husk (Velasquez- Tavenier)
Method", in recognition of Daniel's original  idea.

The "CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK-AIR PUMP (Velasquez-Tavenier) METHOD"
is a NON-ALCOHOL, mucilage removal method of historical importance . It was developed jointly with my friend, Daniel Tavenier, a master
artist and master teacher, resident of The Netherlands.  For years my own research has been  to produce the finest Flax seed oil for oil
painters. To do this, I had to find a safe and efficient way to remove the mucilage from the unrefined, food grade, cold pressed flax seed oil.
The very same high quality oil the Old Masters had.
PLEASE WORK TO STOP PIRACY OF BOOKS, MUSIC, POETRY
and all forms of INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY
Discuss this with family, friends, students, kids and neighbors

THE SIMPLE FACT IS: PIRACY IS THEFT !
It is distressing to me that my books and DVDS are being PIRATED on the Internet .

I BELIEVE IN SHARING -
BUT NO BUSINESS COULD EVER SURVIVE IF EVERYTHING WAS FREE TO THE PUBLIC
I have always encouraged all artists to SHARE the CSO KNOWLEDGE they learn about
EVERY ARTIST deserves to know about this wonderful extraordinary SAFE method that uses no hazardous or dangerous
materials--while-- allowing artists to MASTER THE OIL PAINTING MEDIUM -- and duplicate the truly magical oil painting effects we
see in the paintings of Rembrandt, Velazquez, Rubens and many other Old Masters.

FOR YEARS I HAVE POSTED MY CSO OIL CLEANSING METHODS -FREE TO THE PUBLIC.
I have also posted FREE videos on YOUTUBE - including two of my FULL LENGTH videos.
[ locate them by typing in:  CSO VELASQUEZ ]

I ENCOURAGE ARTISTS TO BUY MY BOOKS-
Then to share IN PERSON - the great knowledge they have learned.
FREE digital giving away [ file sharing] is simply wrong.

INSTRUCTIONS
THE "CSO PSYLLIUM HUSK [ Velasquez- Tavenier] AIR PUMP METHOD
This is an easy  non-alcoholic, method of removing the mucilage from the unrefined FLAX SEED/ LINSEED oil

MATERIALS:
16 fluid ounces of cold pressed, food grade, unrefined FLAX SEED OIL. [ Linseed oil is from FLAX seeds]
MAKE CERETAIN the oil has absolutely NO ADDITIVES!! No vitamin C, no vitamin E, no Toco Pherols. Nothing!
A large 32 ounce clear glass jar with a lid..[ The jar is double the size of the oil volume- to avoid splashing]
1 low cost simple electric  AIR PUMP from an aquarium shop. Do not get a WATER pump. Get an air pump
4 feet of plastic tubing to fit the Air Pump connector
[ view some free videos on Youtube on HOW TO SILENCE A NOISY AIRPUMP]
A medium sized fine mesh Colander.
A plastic Funnel and a few Ladies make-up Cotton Balls . This is to FILTER the oil.
A small jar of DRY PSYLLIUM HUSK that is whole HUSK or powdered HUSK.
Use only HUSKS--DO NOT USE WHOLE SEEDS!!

SET UP INSTRUCTIONS:
Punch 2 holes in the lid that will be the size of the plastic tube.
Stick the tube into one hole, to the length that when the lid is on, the end of the tube is at the bottom of the jar. The other hole leave open
for air release
Place the air pump ABOVE THE JAR LEVEL. This avoids back flushing
IF YOU RUN THE AIR PUMP OUTDOORS [ not indoors] , Place a plastic Sandwich bag LOOSELY over the cap to keep moisture out.
Connect the tube to the air pump but do not yet start it

MIX THE INGREDIENTS
Pour the 16 fluid ounces of oil in the jar. ADD 1 full volume ounce of the dry Psyllium HUsks . Cap the jar . Shake 30 seconds. Start the Air
Pump.
AFTER 24 HOURS PASSES. Stop the air pump. Place the colander over a bowl. Pour the contents into the colander to separate oil from husk.
Give it time to drain [ a couple of hours].

FILTER THE OIL
Place the funnel over a clean jar. Place a thick cotton ball into the funnel. Pour the oil into the funnel. This will drain very slowly- overnight.

SAVE 6 OUNCES OF THE CLEANSED OIL. THIS IS "THIN" OIL. YOU WILL NEED IT FOR OTHER USES.

POUR THE OTHER 10 OUNCES OF OIL IN A CLEAN JAR-
Add 1/2 volume ounce of dry Psyllium Husk and shake
Reconnect The air Pump. Keep the air pump on got 15 to 18 days maximum. ONCE DONE Filter the oil. This is your SUPERIOR OIL OF THE OLD
MASTERS. I will leave these instructions on my website until I republish my VOLUME 2 BOOK.

This book, published in 2016
will be REVISED in September 2017

Thank you for your patience
The NEW REVISED EDITION will contain
new information

CLEANSING ARTISTS FLAX- LINSEED OIL OF MUCILAGE
The safe removal of the mucilage is the most important requirement of oil painting
Today we have "THE REBIRTH OF THE OLD MASTERS' SUPERIOR OIL"