CSO MILK METHOD OF CLEANSING LINSEED OIL

CLEANSING UNREFINED FLAX OIL METHODS
Please see my book and DVDS for detailed
instructions

THE BOOK HAS THE INFORMATION
YOU NEED TO OIL PAINT WITHOUT HAZARDOUS SOLVENTS RESINS VARNISHES
AND DRIERS...WHILE STILL BEING ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE OLD MASTERS'
METHODS.

SOME INSTRUCTORS EXPRESS THEIR VIEW THAT TO OIL PAINT WITHOUT ANY
SOLVENTS, RESINS AND DRIERS AND VARNISHES, ALL ONE HAS TO DO IS USE THE
PAINT RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE.
YES IT IS TRUE. ONE CAN AVOID ALL THOSE HAZARDOUS MATERIALS ...BY JUST
NOT USING THEM.

HOWEVER, THE METHOD OF JUST USING THE OIL PAINT RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE
IS VERY LIMITING AND WILL NOT ALLOW ONE TO ACHIEVE THE GREAT BEAUTY OF
PAINT WE SEE IN THE OLD MASTERS' PAINTINGS.

THIS BEAUTY OF PAINT WAS DEFINED BY FREDERIC TAUBES IN THE MID 20TH
CENTURY, AND HE CREATED THE TERM, "PAINT QUALITY". ONLY WHEN YOU LOOK
AT THE OLD MASTERS' PAINTINGS AND COMPARE THEM TO THE INDUSTRIAL ERA
OIL PAINTINGS, WILL ONE SEE THE GREAT DIFFERENCE.

MY BOOK WILL HELP YOU TO ACHIEVE THE PAINT QUALITY WE SEE IN THE OLD
MASTERS' PAINTINGS.
YOU CAN SEE THE TABLE OF CONTENTS ON AMAZON.COM , AND ALSO READ A
CHAPTER.
PLEASE READ THE REVIEWS AND ALSO THE TESTIMONIALS HERE ON MY WEBSITE

YOU MAY CONTACT ME AT velapress@aol.com
I RESPOND TO ALL QUESTIONS

CLEANSING THE UNREFINED FLAX OIL : ISSUES, QUESTIONS . ANSWERS

Donald Fels' Book, " Lost Secrets of Flemish Painting: ... "
INCLUDES THE FIRST COMPLETE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF THE DE MAYERNE MANUSCRIPT WRITTEN IN FRENCH BY A MEDICAL
DOCTOR, THEODORE DE MAYERNE , DATED 1620. THIS MISH MASH, CONVOLUTED, INCOMPLETE, JINGLE- JANGLE CONTENT OF
MANY SUBJECTS BESIDES OIL PAINTING, INCLUDES TED'S OWN IDEAS ON " WHAT TO TRY NEXT" ...' TO SEE IF IT WORKS OR NOT" [
MY QUOTES]. TED DEMAYERNE'S QUOTE: IN FELS' BOOK, PUBLISHED IN 2001, ON PAGE 162, IS LISTED A PAGE FROM THE
MANUSCRIPT, NUMBERED ; MS P.16 (VERSO). IT QUOTES TED DEMAYERNE AS SAYING THIS:
" MANY BELIEVE THAT ALL OILS OBTAINED FROM PRESSING ARE VERY DIFFICULT OR TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTILL".
THE MANUSCRIPT GIVES NUMEROUS WAYS THE OLDER PAINTERS TRIED, IN CLEANSING THEIR OIL. PERHAPS IN THE END, IT IS
IMPOSSIBLE TO FULLY REMOVE ALL THE MUCILAGE FROM THE UNREFINED OIL. BUT, WE MUST TRY TO DO OUR BEST. CERTAINLY,
MODERN ALKALI REFINEMENT WITH USE OF CAUSTIC LYE CHEMICALS AND HIGH HEATING TEMPERATURES IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE
ALTERNATIVE BECAUSE THE LYE SODIUM HYDROXIDE CHEMICALS AND HIGH HEAT CAUSE IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO THE OIL.

HOW CAN WE TELL IF THE MUCILAGE IS REMOVED BY OUR CLEANSING EFFORTS?

THE PACHECO METHOD. This 17th century method allows one to see the separation and precipitation of the white mucilage . The method
is excellent. But, its drawback for my book is that it contains hazardous spike solvent from the Lavender flowers. Francisco Pacheco was
Diego VELAZQUEZ' teacher and certainly it was taught to VELAZQUEZ.

THE PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD is my development based on what I learned from Pacheco's method.
It is THE VERY BEST and MOST EFFICIENT method in which I developed and identified Psyllium Husk as a replacement for the Lavender
flowers, thus , making it a SAFE method without any solvent.

REPEAT FILTERING
IT IS TRUE THAT ONCE THE OIL IS PROCESSED BY ANY OF MY METHODS, ONE CAN REPEAT THE METHOD, OR , REPEAT THE
FILTERING. WITH OIL CLEANSING, MULTIPLE CLEANSING AND FILTERING MAY HAVE SOME BENEFITS. MORE EXPERIMENTS WILL
HELP ANSWER THE QUESTION.

CONCLUSION
THERE IS NO ALTERNATIVE, UNTIL SOMEONE ELSE DISCOVERS A TRULY BETTER SOLUTION.
SIMPLE GRAVITY BY ITSELF, WILL NOT REMOVE ALL THE MUCILAGE, NO MATTER HOW LONG THE OIL STANDS STILL.
I HAVE READ THE ACADEMIC REPORT BY THE HIGHLY RESPECTED CONSERVATIONIST, LESLIE CARYLYLE , IN WHICH SHE STATES
THAT IF THE OIL STANDS LONG ENOUGH.... ALL...THE MUCILAGE WILL SETTLE.
I BELIEVE I CAN PROVE THAT IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE.
I HAVE NOT YET READ HER REPORT OF TESTING AND COMPARISON OF OIL THAT WAS " WATER WASHED" BY AN OLD METHOD,
AND COMPARED TO THE CONTROL OIL THAT WAS NOT WASHED.
I UNDERSTAND HER RESULTS DETERMINED THAT THIS METHOD, WAS BASICALLY USELESS.
THE NUMEROUS CLEANSING EFFORTS OF THE OLD MASTERS RESULTED FROM THEIR ORAL TRADITIONS AND KNOWLEDGE THEY
LEARNED THAT EVEN 'STAND OIL" [ oil allowed to stand for extensive periods of time] WAS NOT CLEAN.
I HAVE ALWAYS MAINTAINED THAT THE "WATER WASHING METHOD" OF THE OIL IS A WASTE OF TIME, ENERGY, AND OIL. I HOPE
ONE DAY MS. CARLYLE WILL FOCUS HER HIGHLY RESPECTED TRAINING AND RESOURCES INTO THE STUDY OF THE MANY WAYS
THE OIL CAN BE CLEANSED OF THE MUCILAGE.

PHOTO RIGHT
THE SUPERIOR LINSEED/ FLAX OIL OF THE OLD MASTERS
EXAMPLE OF 30 DAY SUN THICKENED FLAX OIL: PROCESSED FROM UNREFINED FLAX OIL,
CLEANSED OF MUCILAGE BY NON CAUSTIC METHODS, SUN AND AIR EXPOSED FOR 30 DAYS IN
SUMMER SUN. ONCE YOU TRY THE SUPERIOR OIL I DESCRIBE ABOVE , YOU WILL KNOW THE
DIFFERENCE.

MY OPPOSITION TO HIGH PRICED OIL
UNFORTUNATELY, SELLERS OF SUN THICKEN OIL CHARGE VERY HIGH PRICES, CHARGING
ANYWHERE FROM $10 + PER OUNCE. I AM COMPLETELY IN OPPOSITION TO THAT PRACTICE. I
FULLY UNDERSTAND THAT "CARING" FOR OIL FOR 30 DAYS, IS TIME CONSUMING AND TEDIOUS,
BUT I BELIEVE THE SUPERIOR OIL CAN BE MASS PRODUCED AT REASONABLE PRICES.

I ENCOURAGE ARTISTS TO BUY THEIR CALCIUM CARBONATE/ CHALK FROM CHAMPAGNE,
DIRECTLY FROM www.kremer-pigmente.de
THIS GERMAN COMPANY HAS DISTRIBUTORS WORLDWIDE. IN THE USA, THEY HAVE 2 OFFICES IN
NEW YORK.

TESTING THE CLEANSED OIL FOR CLEANLINESS

The use of the Water Sediment Test is a good indicator on whether the CLEANSED OIL oil contains mucilage.

Care must be taken because the simple fact that two liquids, one on top the other, may just show a thin film of
emulsification at the juncture point.

And, the degree of mechanical filtration is another consideration, as a poor filtering will allow mucilage or other
sediment to enter the oil. EXAMPLE: In using the Lavender flower, I found that the minute sized fuzz from the
flower buttons can pass through the filter. The same for use of the Psyllium Husk.

However, there is reason to believe that the Water Sediment Trap is a good indicator on whether the chosen
cleansing method, did or did not remove the mucilage..

TRULY, only a science lab can measure the quantity of mucilage in oil, but we know the Old Masters did not have
any of our modern instruments and some of them succeeded. I reject the notion that the cleansing of the oil was a
complicated or time consuming process.

THE 'water washing' processes where oil is REPEATEDLY vigorously shaken with water , IS A WASTE OF TIME AND
OIL. My book explains the reasons.

These series of tests show the results of 1/4 inch of oil resting on 2 ounces of water, over several days. The
results are interesting.
The white paper resting beneath the jars has 2 lines. a solid black and a red. It turned out the red was not
waterproof, and one morning we had a lot of DEW on the paper, causing the red to bleed. The photos speak for
themselves. Continue to scroll down to see all the photos.

ALLBACK SWEDISH OIL
They produce 2 kinds: BOILED and
PURIFIED My tests used the oil right from the
container.

#6 = ON YOUR LEFT; Their Purified Oil
#10 = ON YOUR RIGHT: Their BOILED oil

SEE THE REPORT BELOW EXPLAINING
WHY I CANNOT RECOMMEND ALLBACK
LINSEED OIL FOR FINE ART PAINTING

BARLEANS UNREFINED FLAX OIL

#11=On your left, is the UNCLEAN oil right out of the
bottle. It is known to be full of mucilage.

# 13=On your right: Barleans oil, previously cleansed
by the VEL-TAUB method, then SUN THICKENED for 30
days. The oil is beginning to crystalize and dry HARD. It
is pure colorless clear as it is drying on the water, as
only 1/4 inch oil is resting on the water.

#8 = ON YOUR LEFT : The CSO-MILK method, but an
earlier formula, where NO VINEGAR is used.

#9 = ON YOUR RIGHT : The NEW 'CSO-MILK'
method, where VINEGAR is used to curd the milk.

PLEASE NOTE :
I HAVE DETERMINED AFTER MONTHS OF TESTING
THAT THE PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD IS
SUPERIOR TO THE CSO-MILK METHOD.

THE CSO-MILK METHOD REMAINS AS A VALUABLE
METHOD OF REMOVING THE MUCILAGE FROM THE
UNREFINED FLAX OIL.

IN THE FUTURE I WILL SHOW SAMPLES OF THE
PSYLLIUM ALCOHOL METHOD.

SWEDISH ALLBACK LINSEED OIL =
EXCELLENT FOR HOUSE PAINTING
NOT RECOMMENDED FOR FINE ART OIL PAINTING
BECAUSE THEY WILL NOT TELL HOW HOT THEY HEAT THEIR "PURIFIED LINSEED OIL

Swedish , Allback linseed oil, is sold in the USA by ….http://www.solventfreepaint.com ... but manufactured and processed by the Allback company of Sweden.

I have read their website carefully several times, and I have written to them for specific information.
Swedish words translated into English, as in all language translations, lose some meaning.
Example; Their website says that if linseed oil is not first purified, but is BOILED to a certain temperature, it will EXPLODE. ......Well, that’s not true.
But, it will IGNITE. It is not that they are misleading us, just that the translation is weak.
I was able to understand the basic information their website says about their oil by applying common sense and use of my experience.

The one important question I have asked Allback, is this; ‘ What is the maximum temperature your PURIFIED oil…not your BOILED oil --- is heated to.
This very important question is based on my research of scientific academic sources that states flax/linseed oil begins to decompose at 230-236 degrees centigrade.
The allback company has never responded to my letters. The USA representative did respond after two letters, and would only say that the process is patented, and they will not
divulge it. This reluctance to inform the public is not helpful to us artists. My patent in the USA is open to the public, so I do not understand the reluctance.

PLEASE KEEP THE DECOMPOSITION TEMPERATURE IN MIND AS YOU READ THIS REPORT
This information is from academic sources and is on my website:
200 Degrees Centigrade = The Old Masters use of a goose quill to indicate SAFE heating temperature
230-236 Degrees Centigrade = DECOMPOSITION BEGINS / Carbonization/ Reduced Lifespan
300 Degrees Centigrade = Modern Stand Oil - heated/ without Oxygen
300 Degrees Centigrade = Oil smokes and produces TOXIC Carbon Monoxide and Acrolein gas vapors
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil begins to BOIL
343 Degrees Centigrade + = Oil Ignites / Catches fire
380 - 425 Degrees Centigrade= Burnt Plate Oil made by modern testing
Some websites recommend use of Burnt Plate Oil.
BURNT PLATE OIL is a very decomposed oil meant for disposable Lithography. Its true name is ‘ Lithography oil”.
Rembrandt's etching were made with Lithography Oil, and they are kept under wraps, covered, in the shade as much as possible.

The Allback website states they process and sell two kinds of linseed oil. BOILED and PURIFIED.

1. ALLBACK'S " BOILED" linseed oil.
Swedish Flax oil is undoubtedly one of the highest quality oil GROWN and HARVESTED in the world. But the processing of the RAW OIL determines the FINAL QUALITY for the needs of
artists. This Allback oil is BOILED and they do not deny it. They in fact are very proud of it, as they should be. Because its high quality BOILED OIL is made for painting houses and
fences and all manner of wooden objects , AND... they NEVER advertise it for fine art oil painting. Linseed/ flax oil begins to BOIL at 343 degrees centigrade. This is far above the safe
temperature of 230-236 degrees centigrade at which time the oil begins decomposition. What does ’decomposition’ mean in terms of artists oil? This: For house
painting, 50 years is an adequate life span, and no one expects more. Of course the house is blasted by rain, sleet, sun and snow. It’s a miracle it lasts 50 years.
A Van Eyck painting left to those outrageous conditions would not fare any better. The key here is that by BOILING the oil, and causing its decomposition, its lifespan is severely
compromised. But given that its service is - 50 years, it’s a moot point. I would bet my money that if the house was painted with Allback BOILED oil, and kept indoors next to the Van
Eyck painting for 600 years, it would not come close to the state of preservation of the Van Eyck painting.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S BOILED LINSEED OIL: : DO NOT use any BOILED linseed oil for fine art oil painting regardless on who makes it
Science says it is severely decomposed with a shortened life span.

2 . ALLBACK'S " PURIFIED linseed oil".
a. = The oil is pressed COLD. This is GOOD. Cold Pressed oil is great, but even gentle heat in pressing is allowable as this oil is very TOUGH.
b. = Then it is stored and allowed to stand still. This is GOOD too , because this means it is allowed to settle the vegetable particulate caused by the pressing of the seeds. When
freshly pressed it is FULL of husk, dirt, and other sediment. Gravity will allow this heavier particulate to settle.
c. = Then the top clear oil is siphoned off. This is GOOD. Because now the clear oil is easier to be further processed. Allback, just as the Old Masters, learned something very
important. NO AMOUNT of gravity will remove the MUCILAGE. Mucilage is a very complex ingredient. Nature placed it inside the seed for reasons of nurturing the rebirth of the seed
when it is sown into the ground. Mucilage is INVISIBLE to the naked human eye. If you looked at a WARM glass of that clear bright top oil siphoned off the top, it would sparkle with
great beauty of transparency. BUT, it is filled with MUCILAGE. The Old Masters learned of this over centuries of oral tradition. Mucilage will ferment, decompose, and turn the oil paint
made with it, BROWN and DARK, if not removed. The Old Masters knew this and tried everything under the sun to remove it. Some succeeded and the evidence is their 600 year old oil
paintings with colors that remain jewel-like. After the Old Masters’ demise, 19th century scholars like Eastlake, followed by many generations of other artists, all tried their hand at
cleansing the oil. Finally, industry cleansed it with caustic lye chemicals, but ruined the oil’s durability, and properties, in the processing.

d. = Then, the Allback website says, the oil is ‘heated gently’ to remove the PROTEIN while it is exposed to OXYGEN. This oxygen procedure is not explained. But, I can add my personal
knowledge here. Since I have worked with the cleansing of the oil for 4 years now. The goal is to remove the Mucilage and by heating the oil, the heat thins the oil. This certainly helps
but it is not enough. Exposure to oxygen, especially if HEAT is being applied, is very necessary, or, the steam water vapors remain in the oil, causing and perpetuating moisture
retention and slow drying. Since Allback wants a faster drying oil, oxygen is part of the process. The Old Masters knew this too, that the oil must be left uncovered as it is being sun
thickened.
It is interesting that Allback calls the MUCILAGE, by the term, PROTEIN. Some call it BREAK, and, others call it the ‘FOOTS”. Regardless, the Allback website says it treats the oil with
several gentle heatings and does their very best to remove ALL the PROTEIN, as they call it. Only then, do they call this oil PURIFIED.
CONCLUSION ON ALLBACK'S PURIFIED LINSEED OIL. : Since I know the oil begins decomposition at 230 degrees centigrade, If I knew the temperature the Allback
PURIFIED oil is heated to, I could make an informed accurate decision. Llacking that, I cannot endorse Allback oil for fine art oil painting.
Some artists are either unaware of the decomposition temperature of oil or do not care.

CAUTION
When you buy your cold pressed, UNREFINED Flax Oil, BEWARE.

MODERN COLD PRESSED
is really not COLD pressed because powerful Hydraulic presses crush the seeds. This modern equipment
causes heating. Barleans has told me no additional heat is applied to the oil, but that the presses heat up, and
this causes the oil to heat up about 110 degrees F.. This is acceptable because it is far under the safe heating
temperature of where the oil decomposes at 230 degrees C.

My tests show that sun thickening the oil in moderate sunny San Diego California, 5 miles from the ocean, might
have a temperature of 80degrees F., but the oil in the white opaque container is about 125 degrees F. This sun
exposure over 30 days is not harmful to the oil. Artists in hot Texas tell me 15 days is all they need to sun their
oil.

COLD PRESSED?
Old Holland company from the Netherlands states their oil is pressed by windmill power, as in the olden days.
Their oil is excellent, but very expensive. Some may wish to use only it. I settle for Barleans.

NOW THE WARNING:
Read the label. Since food grade Flax oil is REALLY being processed for human health, you need to READ the
label carefully. AVOID ANY OIL WITH ANTIOXIDANTS- ANTI OXIDANTS STOP OIL FROM DRYING
AVOID the oils that say they contain tocopherols, polypherols, vitamins E or C or Rosemary or other oils mixed
in. ALSO AVOID any oils with flavorings or any other ADDITIVES. Also, do not buy 'HIGHEST LIGNANS' oil or
MIXED oils, or oils nade for horses or pets.

The photo to your right shows the clarity of the clean oil.
Once the oil is cleansed of its damaging mucilage, it can be used for several important
tasks in the 'Calcite Sun Oil / Emulsions' method of oil painting.

1. It is ready to be sun thickened .Sun thickening takes 20-50 days depending on
geographical area and season. This process produces the VERY FINEST OIL or oil
painting. FAR SUPERIOR to walnut, poppy, or any other oils used by some. This is the
PREMIER oil used by the greatest European Old Masters, the one spoken of by the
Renaissance master, Cennino Cennini.

2. Before the oil is sun thickened, it is limpid and yellow. It is used to make the simple '
Non Viscous' Emulsion" described in my book. The Non Viscous Emulsion serves
important tasks not offered by the Viscous Emulsion. If not applied correctly, the
Emulsions will fail.

3. Once this oil is Sun thickened, it is viscous and bleached.
It is then used to make the' Viscous Emulsion". Both emulsions are made within 30
seconds if the glair is available. Glair takes 5 minutes to make. Both EMULSIONS are
crucial to oil painting without solvents, resins and varnishes or driers.

4. NOTE: USE low cost alkali refined linseed oil for cleaning your brushes, hands,
palette and grinding table.

SUN THICKENING YOUR OIL
OIL can also be ' thickened" by using an electric hotplate but the oil remains yellow.
Keep the temperature very low, under 130 degrees Fahrenheit. The oil begins to
decompose at 230 degrees Centigrade. Care must be taken for fire hazard and burns.
Artificial heat should be done outdoors and children should be protected.

THE PHOTO TO THE RIGHT, SHOWS THE OIL ONCE IT HAS BEEN SUN THICKENED
FOR 30 DAYS. = BUGS AND DIRT GET INTO THE OIL, BUT ARE EASILY FILTERED
OUT. THE SUN EVAPORATES MOISTURE NATURAL TO THE OIL CREATING A FAST
DRYING OIL AND IT BLEACHES THE OIL. THE EXPOSURE TO THE SUN RAYS, AIR
AND HEAT CAUSES THE OIL TO BECOME VISCOUS. ALL OF THESE CONDITIONS
CREATE AN OIL THAT WILL DRY WITHIN 30 HOURS OR LESS WHEN USED IN PAINT.
TUBE PAINT IS MADE WITH SLOW DRYING OIL AND THIS SLIGHTLY SLOWS THE
DRYING. HAND GROUND PAINTS ARE THE FASTEST TO DRY.

THE STIR STICK IS A FEW TWIGS TIED TOGETHER, OR ONE CAN BUY A WHISK. THE
OIL MUST BE STIRRED DAILY FOR 1 MINUTE, BUT IN EXTREMELY HOT WEATHER,
2X A DAY. STIR BRISKLY TO INTRODUCE OXYGEN INTO THE OIL.

PLEASE SEE MY 3 SHORT YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON THE NEW REMARKABLE " AIR
PUMP OIL" JUST TYPE IN CSO VELASQUEZ

THIS IS THE RESULT OF USING OIL
PAINT FROM THE TUBE WITHOUT
ANY ADDITIVES

* Dries comparatively soft
* Loss of color depth and luster
* Poor blending
* No Thixotropy
* No Micro-Fine details
* Extremely slow drying
* Suede effect is disturbing

ADDITIONAL TESTS OF THE 6 SAMPLES ABOVE

The 6 tests above, were started on 5/1/09 and
5/2/09, as is written on each cap top.

ON 6/23/09 I placed all six sample seen above in a
box without any light.

On 9/16/09, I removed the six samples and took
photos of each. This almost 3 month standing in
darkness produced the following results.

#10= The ALLBACK BOILED LINSEED OIL fared
the worst of all 6 samples. A thick white
concentration sits on the water under the oil.

#6 = The ALLBACK PURIFIED LINSEED OIL,
recommended by some websites, fared almost as
bad as the PURE white matter rests on the water.

#13 = The Barleans Unrefined Food Grade Flax oil
That had been cleansed prior by the VEL-TAUB
method then sun thickened 30 days , shows an
extremely thin film resting on the water. This is due
to contact as described above.

# 11 = The Barleans Unrefined Food grade Flax Oil
that has not been cleansed of its mucilage shows a
thick white matter settling on the water

#9 = This sample of the Barleans oil described
above was cleansed with the CSO-MILK method
described on my site. TWPO TESTS of this method
were conducted. One with vinegar, one without.
SINCE the test dates, I have IMPROVED the
CSO-MILK method, by allowing it to remain
standing outside in the sun for 6 to 10
days...instead of FILTERING the oil within 24 hours
as this sample was done. I have found that not only
does the VINEGAR assist, but the extebnded
STANDING TIME is beneficial to producing very
cleansed oil. Even though this was filtered within 24
hours, it has only a very minor film resting on the
water.

#8 = IN CONTRAST see SAMPLE # 8 which was
made without the vinegar. A thicker white
settlement is visible on the water.

WARNING !! DO NOT BE FOOLED !! MAJOR BRANDS SELL LINSEED OIL WITH THE LABEL= "SUN THICKENED LINSEED OIL".
THESE MODERN INDUSTRIAL OILS ARE SLOW DRYING OILS . THE VERY FINE PRINT ON THE BACK LABEL DISCLOSES THAT THE OIL IS ALKALI REFINED LINSEED OIL

10/7/09= THE PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD OF CLEANSING THE UNREFINED FLAX OIL
METHOD that is described in my book. The tests also demonstrated the need for allowing the mixture to remain STANDING STILL in
the sun with ventilation for 8 to 10 days . This allows the mucilage to drop and stick to the GEL made by mixing the husk and the
alcohol.

These are the improved instructions for the PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD
[ page 21 of the October edition].

INGREDIENTS:
16 fluid ounces of unrefined flax oil .
6 fluid ounce of either 80 proof alcoholic liquor such as brandy, gin or whiskey-. Do not use Denatured alcohol.
2 volume oz dry Psyllium Husk Powder. The husk is sold POWDERED or WHOLE HUSK. Either one is usable. The powdered form gels
faster. NOTE: Volume and fluid measurements are the same. DO NOT WEIGH THE DRY HUSK.
Quart glass jar
Wide glass bowl at least 10 inches in diameter
INSTRUCTIONS:
FIRST: Mix the husk and the alcoholic liquor so the husk gets wet. Stir together and allow to stand a few minutes . Use of damp husk
as is done with pre mixing it with the alcoholic liquor, allows the husk to absorb the water in the liquor and prevents its absorption of oil.
The alcoholic content causes the mucilage to separate from the oil, as is learned from the PACHECO METHOD.
SECOND: Once the husk and alcohol gelify, add the oil. They need to be mixed thoroughly. This can be done either by vigorous
shaking by hand in a jar.
THIRD: The mixture is poured into a 10 inch wide bowl so the mixture is about 2 inches in height. This bowl is placed outdoors in the
sun, covered with glass pane so no moisture gets in. Within one day the oil will become transparent as the husk drops. The most
important development I learned is that this must be allowed to remain completely still for between 8 and 10 days.
FOURTH: After the days pass, the oil is poured into a filter funnel made by inserting a small ball of pure cotton ball into the narrow part
of the funnel. Do not compact it so tight that the oil will not pass. Do this filtering at mid day when the oil is warm. Filtering takes many
hours. Place the moist husk in a wire colander and allow to drip over night-- the overall amount of oil loss is less than one ounce.
FIFTH: This is the cleansed oil. The 10 days of sun helped bleach the oil a bit. This cleansed oil is now ready to be Sun Thickened as
described in my book. PLEASE

These are the improved instructions for the PSYLLIUM-ALCOHOL METHOD - Dec 2012

INGREDIENTS:
16 fluid ounces of unrefined flax oil .
6 fluid ounce of either 80 proof alcoholic liquor such as brandy, gin or whiskey-. Do not use Denatured alcohol.
2 volume oz dry Psyllium Husk Powder. The husk is sold POWDERED or WHOLE HUSK. Either one is usable. The powdered form gels
faster. NOTE: Volume and fluid measurements are the same. DO NOT WEIGH THE DRY HUSK.
Quart glass jar
Wide glass bowl at least 10 inches in diameter
INSTRUCTIONS:
FIRST: Mix the husk and the alcoholic liquor so the husk gets wet. Stir together and allow to stand a few minutes . Use of damp husk
as is done with pre mixing it with the alcoholic liquor, allows the husk to absorb the water in the liquor and prevents its absorption of oil.
The alcoholic content causes the mucilage to separate from the oil, as is learned from the PACHECO METHOD.
SECOND: Once the husk and alcohol gelify, add the oil. They need to be mixed thoroughly. This can be done either by vigorous
shaking by hand in a jar.
THIRD: The mixture is poured into a 10 inch wide bowl so the mixture is about 2 inches in height. This bowl is placed outdoors in the
sun, covered with glass pane so no moisture gets in. Within one day the oil will become transparent as the husk drops. The most
important development I learned is that this must be allowed to remain completely still for between 8 and 10 days.
FOURTH: After the days pass, the oil is poured into a filter funnel made by inserting a small ball of pure cotton ball into the narrow part
of the funnel. Do not compact it so tight that the oil will not pass. Do this filtering at mid day when the oil is warm. Filtering takes many
hours. Place the moist husk in a wire colander and allow to drip over night-- the overall amount of oil loss is less than one ounce.
FIFTH: This is the cleansed oil. The 10 days of sun helped bleach the oil a bit. This cleansed oil is now ready to be Sun Thickened as
described in my book. PLEASE SEE the new AIR PUMP OIL on my main page.